Permaculture Principles
-core principles for ecological design
-observe - use thoughtful observation, observe site and elements in all seasons
-connect - place elements of design to create many useful connections. connection are greater than the number of elements
-catch/store energy and materials - identify, collect and hold useful flows. every cycle is an opportunity for yield, every gradient can produce energy (slope, charge, temperature). reinvest resources to capture more - positive feedback loops
-each element performs multiple functions - stack elements in space and time, create as many connections as possible for a stable whole (if one element fails, any of the multiple connecting elements can pick up the slack)
-each function is supported by multiple elements - create synergies, redundancy protects the whole when one or more elements fail
-least change for greatest effect - intervene at work w/ 'leverage points'
-use small-scale, intensive systems - grow by chunking, develop small systems that work well and repeat w/ variations
-optimize edge - intersection of two environments is most diverse place in system, it is where energy/materials accumulate/translate. increase/decrease as appropriate
-collaborate with succession - living systems advance from immaturity to maturity, accept trend and align design w/ it. mature ecosystems are more diverse and productive than young ones
-use biological and renewable resources - living beings and their products reproduce and build up over time, store energy, assist yield and interact w/ other elements
-principles based on attitude
-turn problems into solutions - problems can inspire creative design, most problems carry the seed of their own solution and inspire simultaneous solutions to other issues
-get a yield - design for immediate and long-term returns, setup positive feedback loops to build system and repay investment
-greatest limit to abundance is creativity - designers' imaginations and skills usually limit productivity and diversity before any physical limits do
-mistakes are tools for learning - evaluate trials, mistakes indicate attempt at doing something better, little penalty from mistakes if learned from
Differences Between Immature and Mature Ecosystems
attribute immature mature
total biomass productivity low high
amount of organic matter low high
source of mineral nutrients non-living (rocks, rainfall) biological (plants, animals,humus)
mineral cycles open (many imports) closed (recycling)
loss of nutrients high low
role of decomposers, detritus unimportant important
microclimates few, harsh many, mild, shaped by plants
dominant plants annuals perennials
% biomass from year to year low high
# different species low high
diversity of patterns usually low high
food chains short, simple, linear complex, web-like
specialization into niches few, wide many, narrow
symbiotic relationships few many
average size of organisms small large
life cycles short, simple long, complex
breeding strategies many seeds/young, little support few seeds, well supported
stability low high
overall complexity/organization low high
Features of Natural Landscape in Ecological Garden
-deep soil that is rich in nutrients and organic matter
-plants that draw fertility from deep in the Earth, air and rainwater
-many layers of vegetation to create varied niches for other creatures
-an emphasis on perennial plants
-mutually helpful relationships among plants, insects, birds, microbes, mammals and all other inhabitants (including people)
-increasingly closed cycles; that is, over time the garden should require fewer supplies from the outside, producing most of its own fertilizer, mulch, seeds, new plants and so on. except for the harvest, little from the garden is lost by leeching and erosion - it's all recycled
Living on the Edge (Optimizing a Yard's Edges)
-house/yard edge: outside walls create varied microclimates. south wall will be the hottest and sunniest - heat-loving and cold tender plants can go here (one of two USDA hardiness zones). west wall will be cool in mornings, hot in sunny afternoons and north will be coolest and darkest. house can also be kept cooler/warmer by planting on these edges
-pavement/soil edge: paved surfaces collect water - thirstier plants can be placed along sidewalks and driveways to catch runoff. pavement also stores heat on sunny days, so adjacent soil will be warmer
-fence/yard edge: fences and walls act as filters, stopping some flows (people, views) and allowing/creating others (airflow, birds). debris and snow will build up against fences, collecting mulch and moisture. fences can also be used as trellises, so running a zigzag fence will increase edge available for trellis and fence-side plantings, as well as making a fence more resilient to wind and creating sheltered pockets in concave of fence
-plant/soil edge: to increase number of plants in given space, place them in wavy patterns. plants at the edge of a bed often yield more than ones in the center. patterns that increase edge also increase production. rows of tall plants can be alternated with shorter ones for the same effect
-plant/air edge: edges of garden beds and rows of shrubs and trees can be sculpted into undulating shapes that contain cooler, windier lobes and warm, protected bays
-water/soil edge: shape of garden pond effects how many plants fit around edge. round ponds have least amount of edge and ponds w/ lobes and bays/starburst patterns can hold enormous numbers of bog plants and other moisture lovers. fingers of land extending into pond will be dried in raised centers. land plants can thrive in these centers and boggy species can at the squishy margins. varying pond depths makes room for more types of fish and water plants
Steps in Creating Ecological Garden Design
1) observation: what do we have to work with? what are the conditions and constraints of the site and client? what is at the site/what resources are available?
-map site - include buildings, roads and paths; existing trees and other principle plants; slope and major land features; drainage and water courses; soil and conditions (clay or sandy, boggy or dry, and so on); scales and distances
-be immersed in site - what creatures live there? when do various birds and other animals come and go? what do they eat or use on the site? what interactions take place among the plant, animal and human inhabitants?
-observe without planning
2) visioning: brainstorm without judgments or practical considerations. what should the design do? what do we want? what does the site need? how should it feel?
-observation and visioning inform each other.
-designer checklist (move back and forth between observation)
-history of land library/public records, neighbor's knowledge
-homeowners association & government activities
-nearby plantings
-activities of neighbors
-utilities
-areas of shade and sun
-wind
-temperature
-rainfall
-points of sunrise and sunset
-topography, slope and aspect
-rock outcrops, boulders and gravel
-microclimates
-soil
-water
-views
-location of structures on site and nearby (houses, garages, fences, walls) and their effects on surroundings (shade, runoff, windbreak , etc.)
-vegetation
-animals
-traffic and its frequency, heavy/light vehicles, pedestrians, bicycles
-access
3) planning: what do we need to make our ideas happen? how should the pieces be assembled?
4) development: what will the final design look like? how will we make it happen?
5) implementation: the final step - how do we install the garden?
